Steelhead Trout with Chanterelles

 

Early autumn is my favourite time of year. West swell begins to roll into the West Coast again, re-surging the various reef and point breaks back to life; the days are still reasonably long; amazing produce is abundant and inexpensive; and a plethora of delicious wild fungi begin to pop up in the coastal temperate rainforest, just waiting to be found by those keen enough to look. It’s an inspiring time of the year when you’re obsessed with creating food.

Trout with Chanterelle mushrooms is a classic and elegant combination. The dish could be further simplified to the point where the only additional ingredient is salt and pepper and it would still be outstanding. By adding a few finishing touches, the standout flavours are not compromised, but subtly accented. Exercise restraint when adding the ingredients, especially the butter, cream, and sherry. Cooking the trout requires some finesse as well, as the success of the dish hangs on achieving a beautiful crispy skin.

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After a quick and unsuccessful search of the North Shore mountains in the morning, I decided to satisfy my Chanterelle fix by stopping by the Trout Lake Farmer’s market at noon

Ingredients:

2 or 3 portions cut from the freshest Steelhead or Rainbow Trout fillet that you can find (or catch)

1 tbsp olive oil

0.5 pounds of fresh golden chanterelles

1 shallot, minced

1 sprig of fresh thyme, leaves only

1 tbsp butter

1/4 cup cream

Juice of half a lemon

Dash of sherry

1 sprig of fresh dill, roughly torn

Salt and pepper

 

Directions:

  1. Season trout fillets generously, proper seasoning is essential when cooking trout. Heat a saute pan to medium heat, add olive oil, then add the trout fillets skin side down just as the oil starts to heat up. Do not wait for the pan to heat up to searing temperatures, since the skin will shrink and ruin the fillet if heated too quickly. Continue to cook for about 6-8 minutes, or until the skin is crisp and comes away freely from the pan. If the skin is sticking, the pan is either too hot, or hasn’t crisped enough. Flip the trout and cook for 1 minute, then transfer to a plate in a 180 degree F oven to hold while mushrooms cook.

    Trout with pilsner
    Searing trout with the company of some Main St Pilsner
  2. For the next steps, you’ll need to work quickly so that the trout does not sit more than a few minutes. Turn the heat on the pan up to high, and wait 30 seconds or until it reaches searing temperatures. Add the chanterelles to the hot pan, ensuring they are not crowded (otherwise they will steam and not caramelize). Allow to cook undisturbed for 2 minutes.
  3. IMG_3178
    This is about as crowded as I’ll ever cook mushrooms. Any more, and they will steam.
  4. Add the shallots, butter, and thyme to the pan then toss the ingredients together in the pan to incorporate. Cook for 1 minute, then add the lemon, cream, and sherry. Continue to swirl the pan and allow liquid ingredients to reduce for 1 minute, or until a sauce like consistency is reached. Remove from heat, then add half of dill.
  5. Spoon the mushrooms onto a warm plate, then top with the trout fillet. Garnish with the remaining half of dill leaves.

Enjoy!

Trout with Chanterelles

Romesco Sauce

You can put this stuff on anything! There are a tonne of variations; for this one I just took one of the simplest recipes I could find and added roasted tomato and dried chilis.

I made a big batch last week, and it was gone within a few days. I put it on chicken, grilled veggies, in a grilled cheese, mixed it into a vinaigrette, and then I ran out of sauce, so even I do not know the full extent of its capability!

This sauce is even vegan, gluten free, and paleo. So it’s a great sauce to make if you have dietary restrictions.

For a quicker version, use canned roasted red peppers and fresh garlic. Omit the tomatoes.

Ingredients:

1.5 pounds fresh red bell peppers

2-3 ripe plum tomatoes

6 cloves of garlic

1.5 cups of fresh almonds

0.5 cup of good olive oil

2 Tbsp red wine vinegar, or sherry vinegar if you have it

1 Tbsp dried red chilis

1 Tbsp smoked paprika

Salt and pepper

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees f. Place  red peppers in a deep sided baking dish and roast for 15 minutes, flipping after about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and garlic, then roast for another 10 minutes. You want a nice char on the peppers, so don’t worry about burning it since they will be peeled.

2. Place the roasted peppers in a plastic bag and seal, set aside the tomatoes and garlic. This will steam the peppers and make them easier to peel.  After about 10 minutes they will be cool enough to peel. Discard the skins, stems, and peels.

3. While the peppers are cooling, lightly toast the almonds in a sauté pan. Don’t burn them.

4. Toss all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse to a consistent paste. Don’t over do it, you still want some texture in the sauce.

Enjoy!

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Smoky Scotch and Apple Sour

This is my best attempt to replicate one of my favourite drinks from Veneto Tapa Lounge, “The Satchmo.” Sweet, sour, and smoky manage to all come together in a harmonious fashion, with a subtle compliment of apple and cinnamon.

I have to hand it to the folks at Veneto for their creativity and consistency, as well as their ability to deliver with both classic and contemporary cocktails. These are the people that not only introduced me to classics such as the Vieux Carre and Seelbach Hotel, but also some of my new favourites such as the Satchmo, Aloe Kitty, The Wax Poetic, and Barjonesing. I highly recommend a visit to their location in the Rialto Hotel to give some of these a try; if you don’t know what to order, ask for a Vieux Carre.

Look for an Islay Scotch to add the smoky characteristic that really makes this drink work, I used Laphroaig 10 year. Apple bitters may be hard to find, but Angostura will work in a pinch.

Ingredients:

1.5 oz peaty Scotch

0.75 oz lemon juice

0.5 egg white

0.5 oz honey

3 dashes apple bitters (or Angostura)

Ice for shaking

Apple peels, about half an apple worth

1. Muddle the apple peels in a boston shaker. Add the Scotch, lemon juice, honey, bitters, and egg white. Shake vigorously, then add ice and shake again.

2. Strain with a fine mesh, and garnish with an apple slice.

Enjoy!

Mayonnaise

If you’ve never made real mayonnaise before, your life is about to change. It’s actually an insult to mayonnaise that we call the store bought, processed, fallout-proof oil emulsification by the same name. Real mayonnaise is extremely easy to make after you understand the process, and all the ingredients can usually be found in any fridge and pantry. Variations on the base recipe are endless, and opens up a whole new world of sauces. To suggest a few variations on the base product: garlic and lemon (aioli), reduced red wine, smoked paprika (serve with jamon and manchego croquettas), wasabi, and of course sriracha. I’ve even heard of fish roe mayonnaise, but I have yet to try it. 

This is the start of mayonnaise. Egg yolk, diijon mustard, and salt. There’s only one more ingredient past this point, but technique is the important thing. 

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 To make, you’ll need the following (makes about 1/2 cup of mayo):

1 egg yolk

1/2 tbsp of diijon mustard

pinch of salt

Oil, vegetable oil for a light mayonnaise, olive oil for a richer, more flavorful mayo

Directions:

1. Place egg yolk, mustard, and salt into a bowl or pestle and mortar. Mix gently with a fork or whisk to incorporate. 

2. Here is the crucial part. Add the oil in a small stream (think hourglass stream) and whisk with egg yolk mixture regularly, but not too rapidly. Too little oil is will not be an issue, too much and your mayonnaise will break. Continue to add the oil in a steady stream until the emulsification sets, then you can increase the rate at which you’re adding oil. Continue adding oil and whisking continuously until the desired firmness has been reached. If too firm, add some lemon juice to reduce the viscosity. 

3. Your mayonnaise is complete, now is the time to enjoy as is, or create a variation with whatever flavor combinations you can think of. 

Enjoy!

 

 

 

The Nicaula

Who doesn’t want a cocktail named after them? Like Paula and Nicole, this cocktail is very interesting, while also sweet, balanced, and complex. 

Mezcal is an amazing spirit. It is the scotch of tequila, but plays a little bit more nicely when it comes to cocktails. It can be hard to find, but it is worthwhile to pick up a bottle when you stumble across it. In Vancouver, try Legacy Liquor in Olympic Village. 

The apple bitters I’ve used in this recipe were homemade. You can find apple bitters in specialty liquor stores, or better yet make them yourself! Other fruity bitters would work as well with the mezcal. 

1 oz Mezcal

1/2 oz Amaro

5 dashes apple bitters

1/2 lemon

1/2 egg white

1/4 oz honey

To make:

1. Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake well, strain into coupe glass and garnish with an apple slice. 

Enjoy!

 

About

Welcome to Shady Morels.

What you’ll find here is the result of an obsession with creating food. Inspiration comes from local ingredients, simplicity, the west coast, and a nose-to-tail philosophy.

You have to eat, so life is food. Why not live and eat well? Enjoy food and wine with friends, make a mess, experiment, and most of all — have fun!

Cheers!

Thomas