french – shady morels

Porcini Crusted Beef Tenderloin with Red Wine Reduction and Celeriac Puree

Returning to the Pacific Northwest yesterday from a three week surfing and fish taco eating getaway to sunny Sayulita, Mexico; I’m back with a post containing some very wintery food.

The eating experiences I enjoyed in Sayulita will definitely inspire some future posts once ingredients become available.

This was actually course number three of the previously mentioned epic dinner. I will continue to write about each course of that amazing meal over time, and in no particularly logical order whatsoever.

This was a knockout dish, and one of the favourites of the night. It deserves to be accompanied by a big red, and should be the last served of the savoury dishes for obvious reasons.

I must admit, I did deviate from my typical approach to steak for this dish by cooking in a temperature controlled water bath. The results are astounding in terms of the consistency of cook; it ensures a perfect result for a very expensive steak, which can be nerve racking when using conventional heating methods.

Ingredients:

For the beef:

Four 6 oz. beef tenderloin steaks

10g dried porcini mushrooms, pulverized to a powder in a spice grinder

Clove of garlic

Sprig of fresh thyme

Pinch of salt

For celeriac puree:

1 Whole celeriac (aka celery root), peeled and cut into 2 inch chunks

1 clove of garlic

2 tbsp butter

1/2 cup heavy cream

Pinch of salt and pepper

For the red wine reduction:

1 cup medium bodied red wine

A few black peppercorns

2 tbsp butter

Directions:

Mix the salt and porcini powder, reserve half of the mixture. Coat the top and bottom of the steaks with the other half of the porcini-salt rub. Vacuum seal with the garlic clove and thyme, then cook in the sous vide bath at 56 degrees C for 3 hours for medium rare.
Meanwhile, boil the celeriac in salted water until it can be easily pierced by a fork. Transfer to food processor and combine with the remaining ingredients. Blitz to a puree.
Reduce red wine to a third over medium heat. Remove from heat and add peppercorns. Five minutes prior to servicing, re-heat, then add butter and swirl to incorporate. Now the sauce is ready to serve.
Heat a cast iron pan to high and add a glug of olive oil to the pan. Remove the steaks from the sous vide bath and dry any moisture off with a paper towel. Re-coat with the porcini-salt rub, then sear steaks for 30 seconds to one minute per side. Careful not to sear too long, as the steaks are already cooked at this stage. We are just looking to caramelize and achieve a nice crust.
To plate, place a dollop of the celeriac puree on one side of a plate. Using a spoon, spread the celeriac puree to form a tear drop shape. Pour the red wine reduction around the celeriac puree, and top with the steak. Garnish with a roasted wild mushroom, freshly picked chanterelles were used for this dish.

Enjoy!

Serve with an Okanagan Cabernet Franc, Cassini Cellars 2012 vintage would be a great choice!

Camping Post: Chicken with Red Wine Sauce

I’m currently on the north coast of Barkley Sound. Three days ago I was on the South coast in Bamfield. My life over the last week has involved mainly surfing and fishing for halibut and salmon. I’ve scored on both accounts. Fishing was the best I’ve ever experienced, and a beautiful southwest swell has been dishing up consistent fun sized surf for the Tofino coastlines over the past three days. Today alone I logged about nine hours in the water. Since living in Vancouver, I’m like a crack addict when I get to surf, I never know when my next session will be so I make it count! Needless to say, life is good, but I’m exhausted!

Tonight I decided to document some of the food I’ve been making back at my little basecamp at Mussell Beach. Logging so much time surfing, I wanted something nourishing and satisfying due to the energy I’ve been expending. I decided on chicken with red wine sauce; simple, and easily accomplished with limited camping supplies. The results were delicious.

You can make this on a stove or on some coals. Although I’d love to, I didn’t have time to establish a good fire for coals, so I just used my backpacking stove and cast iron pan.

Note, the measurements and techniques in this recipe are very approximate, as they should be since I’m currently camping!

The setup, not a bad vantage point to make a delicious meal.

Ingredients:

1 chicken breast

1 shallot, julienned

1 clove garlic

A half glass of red wine

A good knob of butter

A few new potatoes, sliced

1 sprig each of rosemary and tarragon, add some chives too if they’re handy

A few glugs of olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Directions:

1. Get your cast iron pan on medium-ish heat, then add some olive oil and the potatoes and sauté for ten minutes. Toss in some of the garlic and the rosemary, then season. Sauté for another 5 minutes or so, then transfer to a pot with a lid to hold and let them keep cooking for a while under their own heat.

2. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Get the cast iron hot again, then place the chicken in the pan and monitor closely. It took me about 25 minutes of constant babysitting to get a good cook throughout without burning the chicken. Transfer to the pot with the potatoes to hold.

3. Get the cast iron pan to medium-high heat, then toss in the shallots and remaining garlic for 30 seconds. Add the red wine and let deglaze and reduce for a couple minutes, then add the butter and swirl the pan around to incorporate. Remove the pan from heat.

4. Add the potatoes and chicken back to the pan and add the tarragon and chives. Season again if needed, then eat directly out of the pan like this:

Enjoy!

Rib Eye Steak with Porcini Sherry Sauce and Blue Cheese

This is my formula for steak, and I almost never deviate from it:

Seasoning: Nothing more than a liberal amount of salt and pepper

Cook: Sear and baste with butter, thyme, garlic. Finish in the oven. Rest.

Sauce: Pan reduction sauce with wine or spirits, finished with butter.

Simple right? A great steak should be simple; treat it with care and respect, and let the quality ingredient do the work. When I was learning to cook steak, the sauces would end up over complicated and confusing. What I do now is way more simple and less time consuming, but the results are infinitely superior. It’s funny how a decade of experimenting in the kitchen leads to the pursuit of simplicity.

This recipe is only a slight deviation from the general formula, since re-hydrated mushrooms are incorporated into the sauce in the last step. Some exceptional, crumbly blue cheese is the perfect contrast to the richness of the beef and sauce.

You could also barbecue, but why miss out on the opportunity for a great pan sauce? Save that for the hanger and flat iron steaks.

Please opt for a smaller, but higher quality steak instead of the biggest behemoth you can find. You will end up with a better sear, more flavour, and a far superior presentation.

Ingredients:

For the steak:

1 best quality rib-eye steak you can afford

Generous amount of kosher salt and coarsely cracked black pepper

1 tbsp grapeseed or light olive oil

1 garlic clove, smashed

1 tbsp butter

Couple sprigs of fresh thyme

For the sauce:

1/4 cup dried porcini mushrooms

1/2 cup boiling hot water

1 oz dry sherry

1 tbsp butter

Small chunk of good quality blue cheese

Directions:

1. Re-hydrate the mushrooms with hot water in a bowl and set aside. Do not drain or discard the mushrooms.

2. Meanwhile, generously season the steak. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F. Get a cast iron pan piping hot, add the oil, then carefully sear the steak on one side. Do not disrupt it, this is important! You can take a peak after about two minutes by using a fork to pull up one corner. If you see a rich amber brown all over the full surface, not just the edges, then you can flip it.

3. After you flip the steak, add the butter, thyme, and garlic. Your pan should be hot enough that the thyme crackles as it hits the pan. Tilt the pan so that the butter infuses with the flavour of the garlic and thyme, and spoon the butter over the steak several times. Repeat for about 2 minutes, then toss in the oven for 5 minutes for medium rare.

4. After cooked, remove the steak from the pan and set aside to rest. Put the pan back on high heat, then add the mushrooms, including the brown mushroom stock resulting from the re-hydration. Reduce to a third, then add the sherry and continue to reduce to a nappe consistency. Remove from heart, add the butter, then strain with a fine mesh.

5. To plate, pour the sauce on a plate, arrange a couple stalks of seared asparagus in parallel, then top with some roasted potatoes. Place the steak on top of the garnish, then top with the blue cheese and serve.

Enjoy!

Obligatory Morel Mushroom Recipe

A quick look at a dish conceived around beautiful fresh morels and one of my favourite concepts for cooking wild mushrooms.

Normally I conceive of a dish for dinner while shopping for groceries and not before, I like to be inspired by what is fresh, special, or even economical. On this particular day I stumbled across some rare early summer time jewels not normally available in your every day produce section, fresh morels!

My first inclination for these brainy shaped wild mushrooms was to saute them up with fresh thyme, shallot, white wine, and finished into a nice cream sauce. Normally morels and cream are a wicked combination, but dried morels are really better for that type of sauce due to their concentrated flavour. Also – you can pick up dried morels any time of the year, so I wanted to do something that showcased the freshness of these rare beauties.

What I decided to do was based on a mushroom bruschetta, which is one of my favourite things to make and serve to friends in my kitchen. The concept is simple, fresh wild mushrooms tossed onto a hot and dry cast iron pan (it brings out the woodiness and beautiful umami flavour of the mushrooms); then quickly sauteed in a piping hot pan with a glug of oil and some shallot or garlic, fresh herbs, scallions, and julienned chili; then finished with a splash of whatever alcohol you may have available, sherry and white wine are my favourites. Of course, once the alcohol is reduced to a nappe consistency it’s taken off the heat and finished with a generous knob of butter. Keys throughout the process are to maintain a high temperature, and not to overcrowd the pan. Once autumn rolls around again, I will do up a post about a version I’ve made with fresh chanterelles over a fire pit during a surf trip in Tofino.

The brushetta in this dish consists of fresh morels, thinly sliced garlic scapes, roasted shallot, dry vermouth, and butter. Served with a simple pan roasted chicken breast and sauteed potatoes (which I take very seriously, and will warrant a post of their own in the future).

Official recipe to follow, but for now enjoy the food porn!

Recipe:

1 Chicken breast, boneless and skin on.

1/4 cup of butter

1 large shallot, halved

1 Sprig fresh rosemary, intact

Handful of fresh morels, about 6-8 per chicken breast, halved

2 tbsp olive oil

1/2 cup of fresh garlic scapes, thinly sliced

1/8 cup dry vermouth, white wine, or sherry

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the chicken:

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees F. Put nonstick oven-proof frying pan on medium-high heat and toss in a glug of olive oil.

2. Liberally season the chicken with the coarse pepper and salt, place (not toss) in the pan. Cook for about 5-6 minutes and flip once a nice golden brown colour has developed. Immediately add 1 tbsp of butter, as well as one of the shallot halves and the rosemary. Baste the chicken in the beautiful shallot-rosemary-butter sauce a few times, then toss the whole pan in the oven until the chicken is cooked through.

3. While the chicken is cooking, put another saute pan on high heat. Toss on the fresh morel mushrooms and dry saute until golden brown. You should be getting a beautiful nutty aroma at this point off the mushrooms. Set the mushrooms aside once browned and reduce heat to medium-high.

4. Add a glug of olive oil to the pan, then add the garlic scapes. Julienne the other shallot half, then add to the garlic scapes. Toss this around a few times with the oil so that good colour begins to form.

5. Toss the morels back in the pan with the garlic scapes and shallot, turn the heat to high. Wait about 30 seconds, then splash in the vermouth. We’re aiming for the vermouth to reduce to the nappe consistency in about 15 seconds, so there needs to be enough heat in the pan to achieve this without burning the mixture. Take the pan off the heat, and add 1 tbsp of the butter, season to taste and toss the mixture. Serve immediately over the chicken.

Enjoy!